TOP TWENTY POND QUESTIONS

As more and more people follow their interest in creating a paradise in their own backyard, water gardening is exploding. Pond tours, videos, training booklets and pond clubs are showing up everywhere. People are discovering that well-built ponds are an investment and not a "cost". They offer tranquil refuges to lower stress and enhance the beauty of your landscaping and the value of your property. Since ponding is still relatively new in the States, here's a list of the most common questions and answers about modern ponds and choices available in pond design, filtration, aquatic plantings and fish.

1. What kind of pond should I build?
Most people do not know that this should be the first question they ask. The answer to this question will help answer all of the other questions. The smallest pond is called a starter pond. The next size up is the water garden that is mostly for plants and a few small fish. The much bigger koi pond, is designed to effectively care for large fish.
2. How big should my pond be?
As large as possible, as larger ponds are less costly per gallon and require less maintenance. They are more stable ecologically, safer for fish and hold more lilies and other plants. We encourage new pond clients to build their second pond first. In other words don't start out too small and without a pump or filter. The biggest complaint from first time pond builders is that they wish they had made their pond bigger. A typical hardy lily can take up about a 3'X3' space, & tropicals are larger.
3. How much should I spend?
Small container gardens with plants start at about $100 while full-size water gardens with filters and waterfalls run from around $1,000 to five or ten times that. A pond installation is really an investment that pays for itself. It returns dividends not only in year-round enjoyment but also in increased property value. When a professional installation is desired, qualify the prospect's budget and then visit the customer's site before quoting.
4. Should I use a flexible liner or a preformed pond?
Most times liners are less expensive and more forgiving, i.e. more adaptable to different sizes, depths and site conditions. Preforms sometimes work better as formal ponds, indoors or inside decks, but they are not easier to install. Preforms are also more difficult to filter or skim and are usually too shallow to overwinter fish well.
5. How much work is it to maintain a pond?
That depends on your pond size and type. In general, though, larger ponds are less work, as they are more stable and take longer to get dirty. Also well-filtered ponds with a skimmer and a biological filter stay cleaner, with the filters doing the pond maintenance instead of the pond owner. 10 minutes/week is average for general maintenance, except for when starting up the pond in the spring or shutting it down if desired for a long, freezing winter.
6. How deep does the pond have to be?
Typical depths vary from about 18-inches to 36" for water gardens and three feet to six feet deep for koi ponds. Check local codes for depth allowances and any fencing requirements. Ponds for plants only and maybe a few small fish are better shallower as they are safer, easier to clean and plants need sunlight which deeper koi ponds inhibit.
7. Do I need a filter?
Yes, for low maintenance and best fish care. Ponds need cleaning just like kitchens, living rooms, garages and patios. Maintenance chores, like cleaning, can be put off, but in ponds the longer you wait, the dirtier they get. The benefit of filters is that they clean the pond for you. Some filters do their work almost automatically and these are the ones we most recommend. Clear ponds can be built without a filter, but the right filters make pond maintenance easy. We recommend two filters for water gardens - A mechanical skimmer filter to protect and hide the pump or pump intake, that sits outside the pond and skims the pond of dust & debris and a biological filter to keep the water clear and safe for fish.
8. How big does the filter have to be?
In general the bigger the better as bigger filters last longer between cleanings and handle larger fish loads. It's best to consult with the manufacturer's filter size recommendations. Skimmers are rated in pond area and biological filters in pond volume. Outside-the pond filters are preferred as they can be increased in size without taking up valuable pond space! They are also easier to service when they do need cleaning.
9. How often should I clean my filter?
Mechanical filters should be cleaned whenever they slow the flow of water to the pump. Smaller, in-pond filters may have to be cleaned daily, and that is why we recommend larger, mechanical filters like PondSweep® skimmers. These are usually cleaned about once a week. It only takes about 5 minutes to empty the net and clean the mats so this is not very time-consuming. The furnace filter in your home and the oil filter in your car are designed to catch dirt just like a pond skimmer does but on your pond. Neglecting any of these filters is never a good idea. Biological filters, on the other hand, should not be cleaned except when they are so blocked that water flow is diminished. A large biological filter, like the PondSweep PuriFalls®, is generally only cleaned once per year.
10. Do I need a pump?
Pumps move water to create fountains and waterfalls and to move water through filters. They are highly recommended to keep your pond clean and create moving water. Splashing water looks and sounds beautiful and attracts birds like no other garden feature.
11. Do I have to add fish?
No, but fish do eat mosquitoes and are recommended. They are very easy to care for, help eat pond algae and can be trained to eat out of your hand. They add color and personality to any pond. Be careful not to buy too many or let them out grow the size of your pond or the filter system.
12. How many fish can I put in my pond?
Typical water gardens with two filters and an ecosystem can usually support 5-inches of fish for every 5 square feet of surface area. A 10'X10' pond, with 100 square feet could therefore support about 20 five inch fish, with some room for fish growth. Koi ponds with extensive additional filtration can usually be stocked with much higher fish loads. See the PondSweep company's Pond Design video for more information and to view typical pond fish loads. Remember that fish grow, but filters don't.
13. How do I get rid of green water?
Create a living ecosystem in your pond. Plants, filters, pumps, seed bacteria and a decorative gravel addition to your pond should eliminate most green water. The fewer fish and the less they are fed, the fewer nutrients there will be available for algae growth.
14. How do I get rid of long string algae?
Remember, string algae is tireless pond worker, helping to keep the pond water clear and feeding the fish. It is an important part of any living pond ecosystem. Good pond filters and pond care is usually all that's needed. If it becomes excessive, it can be removed by hand. There are also mild pond additives that suppress the growth of string algae. We are looking to control algae not eliminate it.
15. Do I need a bottom drain?
Bottom drains promote better pond water recirculation through the filters, so they keep your pond water clearer and safer for fish. They are a must for koi ponds and recommended for any water garden, especially for water gardens over 3 or 4 feet deep. They can be added to a pond very easily if using a PondSweep® skimmer.
16. How do I "balance" my pond?
There are many formulas promoting so many plants, fish, snails etc./sq. ft. of pond. Some of these formulas do work as they are based on experience. In truth, nature will tend to balance any pond that is set up as an ecosystem. Harsh chemicals, like algaecides, damage the ecosystem and prevent nature from reaching a balance in your pond. If you find your pond growing excess algae, that usually means you are "under filtered", and nature is responding, i.e. "Balancing" your pond by adding algae to complete the filtration process. We recommend "Balancing" your pond using the filters, plants, gravel and a pump shown in the PondSweep Pond Planner that comes with the PondSweep Pond Design video. This way a natural "balance" of key ecosystem elements like plants, fish, oxygen and bacteria can be achieved, while at the same time assuring a low-maintenance pond.
17. Can I use rocks and gravel?
Not only "can you" we highly recommend it to balance any container pond, starter pond or water garden as described in the PondSweep Pond Planner. Gravel provides a huge surface area for bacteria to colonize (just like in aquariums) and is nature's natural filter, especially when planted with aquatics. Using inexpensive gravel cuts down the cost of other pond filters and pumps as gravel acts as a tremendous pond filter and helps establish the ecosystem. Keep the gravel layer thin (less than one-inch thick) to avoid anaerobic (low oxygen) conditions. See the PondSweep Pond Builder handout for specific rock quantity formulas. Gravel and rocks are usually avoided in deep water gardens or koi ponds, as it will interfere with the flow of water into the bottom drains.
18. How do I overwinter my fish and plants?
Even in freezing climates like the Northern U.S. and Canada, fish and plants are best left outdoors to hibernate naturally. A two-foot deep pond with a surface aerator or heater to keep a hole open is sufficient for most ponds up to zone 4. Clean the pond of debris before the pond ices over. In colder climates and with larger fish, deeper is better as the warmest water (around 40 degrees F) is denser than colder or warmer water, so it forms a "warm puddle" on the pond bottom. Don't disturb that bottom layer of warm water and turn off any bottom drains.
19. What do I do with the excavated dirt?
Save it!! Most yards are flat or sloped away from the house, and the extra dirt can be used to create a planting berm to hide the waterfall filter and create a waterfall and/or stream running towards the house. If your yard already slopes toward the house you may need some of the dirt to terrace the pond wall closest the house.
20. What chemicals do I need?
Here's the good news and a selling point for good pond design. Very few pond chemicals are ever needed with a PondSweep Manufacturing natural pond. Unless your pond is on a well, city water must be "dechlorinated" before it is safe for fish. Beyond that, a natural ecosystem requires very little additional pond chemicals. Nitrifier bacteria is essential to jump-start the pond's ecosystem so green water can be avoided. Regular pond bacteria in dry or liquid form can be added weekly or monthly thereafter to help keep your pond cleaner. (Pond bacteria are friendly, and should never be considered or referred to as "chemicals"). Long string algae is the chief exception to occasional chemical use, especially in the first year or two of pond life before the ecosystem is fully matured. We recommend Pond AlgaeFix from Aquarium Pharamceauticals for string algae control.